I got off the train at Phan Thiáº¿t to take a taxi the final 20km up the coast to Mui Ne. Phan Thiáº¿t itself is the Fishsauce capital of Vietnam and one of those odd Vietnamese coastal towns steeped in the history of one trade and never quite sure which cloak it wore. The surrounding province lies on rich red clay and sand dunes, massive sand blows run up the coast to the north and in the rainy season the red clay swamps the province, plastering itself over the buildings and people. The hot season brings winds which cover the streets in sand and dust making the old women complain that it grits their joints. As I walked out of the station the air held that ting of briny decomposing fish which is consistent in so many of the fishing towns here.